COMPLEX INFILL WITH DUAL FORMS

by Cristina Profir

ABOUT MASTERCLASS

Dual forms are a trending technique, combining speed, precision, and ease of use. Infill, however, can be challenging as it requires correcting uneven growth, addressing lifting, and rebuilding the apex while ensuring a seamless, natural-looking finish.

Join Cristina's masterclass for expert tips on mastering these challenges. Learn to use dual forms efficiently, refine your process, and achieve flawless, durable nails with confidence. Elevate your technique and deliver client-ready results every time!

PRODUCTS USED

Dehydrator

Bonder

Shield Rubber Base

Jelly Gel Medium 

Shield Shimmer Top Gold Dust

STEP BY STEP

1. Removal. Remove previous material and length. Use a conic drill bit at 30k RPM to remove previous product and reduce the nail length.

2. Prep the Nail. Push back the cuticles. Use e-file prep with a red flame drill bit at 10–12k RPM to clean the nail surface. Apply Dehydrator to remove oils and moisture from the nail plate. Optionally, apply Bonder for extra adhesion, focusing on the center of the nail plate while avoiding the skin.

3. Apply Rubber Base. Apply a thin, even layer of Rubber Base to create a gripping, adhesive layer. Cure under UV/LED for 30 seconds. Remove the sticky layer using a lint-free pad and cleanser.

4. Choose forms. Select the correct size of dual forms, always going one size bigger. Check that the growth points are fully covered.

5. Apply Jelly Gel to the Dual Form. Apply jelly gel medium to the dual form. Check the sides for full coverage and apply the gel slowly to avoid air bubbles.

6. Attach the Dual Form. Gently press the dual form onto the nail, ensuring proper alignment. Flash cure for 5 seconds. Remove any excess material as needed, then cure all nails for 60 seconds under UV/LED.

7. Remove the Dual Forms. Gently remove the dual forms after curing, ensuring the structure remains intact.
8. File and shape. Refine Use a conic drill bit to remove any excess material and adjust the nail length.

9. Smooth the Transition Between the Natural Nail and Forms. Use a hand file or drill to remove any visible marks or scales between the natural nail and the dual form. File the sides with a 180-grit hand file to shape the nails.

10. Clean the Nails. Clean the nail surface thoroughly with a cleanser to remove any remaining dust or residue.

11. Apply a Top Coat. Apply Shield Shimmer Top Coat for a delicate, sparkling finish. Cure for 60 seconds under UV/LED.