DUAL FORMS ADVANCED

by Cristina Profir

ABOUT MASTERCLASS

Dual forms continue to trend as a game-changer for achieving flawless nail extensions—if you use the right product and know all the tricks. This is Cristina’s third and most advanced masterclass on dual forms, designed to take your skills to the next level. Beyond the basics, she will showcase both French design and crystal design, helping you expand your creative possibilities and elevate your services. 

Whether you're a beginner looking for efficiency or a pro wanting to master this trending technique, this class will equip you with the expert tips, precision, and confidence to create stunning, long-lasting nails with dual forms.

PRODUCTS USED

Dehydrator

Bonder

SHIELD Rubber base 

Jelly Gel Medium #916

Jelly Gel Strong #930

SHIELD Classic Top

STEP BY STEP

1. Three-Step Prep. Start by preparing the natural nail—gently push back the cuticles, shape the nail, and lightly buff the surface. Apply Dehydrator to eliminate excess oils and moisture, followed by Bonder for optimal adhesion, ensuring it stays away from the skin. Finish with a thin, gripping layer of SHIELD Rubber Base, applying it evenly for a strong foundation. Cure for 30 seconds in a UV/LED lamp.

2. Create a Border Around Cuticle. Using a liner brush, apply Jelly Gel Medium around the cuticle area to create a protective barrier. This step ensures a seamless transition between the natural nail and the enhancement while preventing excess product from flooding the cuticle. Once applied, cure for 60 seconds in a UV/LED.

3. Stick the Silicone Pad. Apply a thin layer of Rubber Base to secure the silicone pad onto the upper form. Use an orange stick to carefully position the pad for a perfect fit. Once in place, flash cure to set it.
4. Create a French Top. Using a liner brush, apply Jelly Gel Strong #930 to shape the perfect French tip on the upper form. Ensure smooth, even coverage for a crisp and clean look. Flash cure for 10 seconds to set the design, then carefully remove the silicone pad.

5. Fill the Form.
Using a gel brush, apply Jelly Gel Medium to fill the upper form, ensuring an even distribution. Focus the biggest amount of product in the middle. Avoid using too much product to keep your work neat and precise. Do not flash cure this step, as the form will be applied directly to the nail.

6. Place Form On the Nail. Carefully place the filled form onto the nail, ensuring a perfect fit and proper alignment. Flash cure for 5 seconds to secure it in place. Gently remove any excess material around the edges for a clean finish. Cure for 60 seconds in a UV/LED.

7. Remove Forms. Gently remove the form from the nail. Clean the sticky layer.

8. Repeat on Remaining Nails. Work one nail at a time, following the same steps on all remaining nails.
9. Create Smooth Transition. Use a slim conic drill bit at 15-20K RPM to gently refine the transition between the upper form and the natural nail in the cuticle area. This step ensures a seamless blend for a more natural-looking finish.

10. Final Shaping. Use a 150-180 grit file to remove any excess gel from the sides and refine the overall shape. Gently file down the tip. Finish by buffing with a 240 grit file to smooth out any imperfections and create a smooth surface for top coat application.

11. Fix the Crystal. Using a thicker drill bit at 20K RPM, carefully make a small incision where the crystal will be placed. Apply a drop of SHIELD Rubber Base into the incision to create a secure hold. Fix the crystal in place and cure for 60s in UV/LED.

12. Apply Top Coat. Before applying the top coat, clean the nail with a cleanser to remove all impurities and dust. Since there is a crystal, use a liner brush to carefully apply SHIELD Classic Top around the crystal without touching it. Then, use the original top coat brush to apply the top coat evenly on the rest of the nail. Cure for 60 seconds in a UV/LED.