1. Natural nail prep. Quality nail prep is a key to optimal adhesion. Start by gently pushing back the cuticles with a wooden stick, then remove excess skin using a rounded tool with light pressure. Lightly buff the nail surface with a 150-grit file, being extra careful around the proximal and lateral folds to prevent irritation. Shorten the nail by filing under the free edge, removing any sharp corners to avoid gaps when applying the form. Finally, shape the nail into a short oval, following its natural growth pattern for a seamless extension base.
2. Cuticle prep. For a flawless cuticle line, use a Flame Bit (Red Sharpness, 2.3mm Long Body) at 15K RPM. Set your e-file to Reverse mode and position the bit at a 45-degree angle. Gently work from the center of the proximal fold to the right lateral fold using light pressure. Switch to Forward mode and repeat on the left side. This technique removes and polishes at the same time, leaving the skin smooth. Finish by trimming any remaining cuticle with nippers or scissors, and for extra refinement, use a polishing bit if needed.
3. Prep Nail Plate. Cleanse the nails using a lint-free wipe and Clenser. Apply Dehydrator to remove any oils and excess moisture from the nail plate. For optimal adhesion follow with a Bonder, using a minimal amount of product and avoiding skin contact.
4. Apply Rubber Base. Apply a thin, gripping layer of SHIELD Rubber Base. To ensure thin application, use a gel brush. Cure for 30s in UV/LED.
5. Form Application. Adjust the paper form to fit the client's nail shape, cutting the ‘egg’ shape to match an oval or square nail. Make 45-degree cuts from the growth points on each side for a snug fit. Ensure there are no gaps between the natural nail and the form, and position it above the hyponychium, never underneath. Check from both side and top views to confirm proper placement before proceeding.
6. Extend the Length. This step focuses only on creating length, not the builder layer. Apply a drop of Classic Gel Medium onto the paper form using a gel brush. Work the gel toward the left growth point, then the right, following the marked lines. Ensure the natural nail tip is covered with an even layer. Cure for 30s in UV/LED.
7. Build Gel Apex. Remove the paper form and work one nail at a time. Apply a slip layer with a thin gel brush, then place a gel drop at 2/3 of the nail and slowly guide it toward the cuticle and free edge, creating the apex. Use a thin brush if needed for precision. Turn the client’s hand to help level the gel, ensuring enough thickness on the sides to prevent lifting. Cure for 30s in a UV/LED. Then once all nails are done, cure the entire hand for the 60s. Minor unevenness will be corrected in the filing stage.
8. Filing. Remove the sticky layer with a cleaner, then use a 150-grit nail file to refine the shape. Adjust the sides and length, ensuring they align with the growth points. File under the nail from growth point to tip for a seamless side profile. Blend the apex into the nail surface for a smooth finish. Remove dust with a soft brush and cleanse with a Cleanser.
9. French tips. For trendy Moccha Muse French Tips use - SHIELD Color Nude Different #392.Use a curved French brush for precise application. Wipe the nails with a cleaner, then apply the French gel from each growth point to the tip, ensuring a symmetrical smile line from all angles. Connect the wings smoothly, keeping the line even and thin. Work on four nails at a time, curing the thumb separately for 30s. Apply a second layer if needed for full coverage.
10. Apply Top Coat & Final Filing. Apply SHIELD Smart top evenly, avoiding air bubbles or bumps. Work carefully for a smooth, reflective surface. Freeze each nail for 10s, then cure the entire hand for 60s. Finish by filing under the free edge for a sharp, crisp look.
